Asus v8200 GF3 Ram w/b build, ( just call me Rotor ;-)

D

DuronClocker

.
#41
Hmm ok...what about tapwater vs. distilled water? Any comments?

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MSI K7T Turbo-R (sweet)
dead duron...750 soon?
256MB PC150 CL2
S3 Savage2000 64MB AGP4x
Buslink 12x/40x DVD
Sony 12x/8x/32x CDRW
300w PSU + 150w AT (450w)

Ali 486 @200? soon?
 
BladeRunner

BladeRunner

Silent & Cool.....
#42
Use distilled water over tap water if you can, I used water from my artisen well, (which is drinking quality), but fairly hard. I have around 30 Gallons in my system 10 of which is glycol based antifreeze.

ol'man

Was the first thing I tried when they were not visable to me, but whatever I do I get this message.



Probably my ISP, but don't worry I wont loose any sleep over it


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Stealth Cooling Project
 
O

ol' man

workin fingas to the bone
#43
Originally posted by BladeRunner:
Use distilled water over tap water if you can, I used water from my artisen well, (which is drinking quality), but fairly hard. I have around 30 Gallons in my system 10 of which is glycol based antifreeze.

ol'man

Was the first thing I tried when they were not visable to me, but whatever I do I get this message.



Probably my ISP, but don't worry I wont loose any sleep over it


For the hot pics try these links then. Maybe they will work.

before he soldered it together....
http://hhrol.50g.com/etshtesohhe.jpg

after...
http://hhrol.50g.com/eeaatesohhe.jpg

It appears that he used aluminum and copper. I was just wondering how it worked. Not as graceful looking as your blocks but still may be affective. Would like to know how they worked if you didn't scare him off
 
A

augustus

New Member
#44
A rather late reaction, because I lost this url. And always trouble with those pictureservers, so a new try.

_________________________________________

It's all pure copper, but my webcam can't handle the shiny surface: it's NOT aluminium.

Drilled with a electric handdrill (and blunt!)


Unpolished result:


Like I said soldered on my kitchen gasstove!

It's for a PIII-500 slot1.
I had drilled four holes in the corner to mount it. But two of these holes leaked from the inside. So I cut 4 pieces of 4mm coppertube, drilled the holes a bit larger, and soldered the tubes inside the holes, thus stopping the leaking.
It's running now for 1 year without problems.
Total cost of my watercooling: about 25~30 dollar COMPLEET (block, fan, pump, copper radiator, hose).



I also build a simple Harddisk cooler.
The design:


This tube fits between two harddrives:


The ugly result:


I actually haven't soldered the coppertube onto the copper sideplates (yet).
And I want to build the drives INSIDE a soundproof box: that's why I have them watercooled.

Two drives in summer never going over 34 degrees celcius with the tube just in series with CPU-block.
 
O

ol' man

workin fingas to the bone
#47
Originally posted by netdude:
I'd rather just buy a faster CPU personally. Nice work though.
Yeah wouldn't we all


Got an extra $700 I can lay down for a PIV 2.2 northwood/mobo/ram
 
A

augustus

New Member
#48
Originally posted by TaNG:
Does that hard drive cooler work effectively?
I've tested it with another (single-)diskcooler inside an cardboard box filled with foam and wool.


U-tube is soldered onto the copper diskholder.

During testing the watertube was not connected/in series with the CPU-waterblock.

After hours defragging and the watercooling running it reached 26 degrees celcius. (Measured on top of the drive, inside the box).
Without the watercooling it reached 43 degrees after just half an hour -at that point I stopped the testing.
So 17 degrees difference AND no noise, with only a copper tube for cooling.


[This message has been edited by augustus (edited 01-21-2002).]
 

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