Operation Water
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Thread: Operation Water

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Talking Operation Water

    Well after years of intending to do so, i've just invested in some nice kit.
    Damn you OCuk and your for sale forum spent about 250quid in the past 3 weeks

    Anyway got
    1048 eheim pump
    maze 4

    bay resevoir

    120.1 black ice rad

    dangerden tubing

    Got lots of air bubbles though but no leaks so dont see how they are getting in as they keep returning after i get rid of them


    And here it is all set up and testing :


    Hopefully all will be fine, tomorrow i need to start work on my case to fit the rad in the front of the case so some drilling etc will be needed. And then will hopefully be able to fit it all tomorrow night after work providing i dont go out drinking fopr st patricks day which would make it thursday everything will be together
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  2. #2
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    The water has air in it. After a few days they should all dissapear. Looks like you picked out some quality parts. Make sure you use distilled water or else you will get depossites on the tubing and stuff. Add a UV reactive die and a UV light and you will have a cool set-up.

    The last time I played with water cooling I made everything from scratch. It worked cool, but the radiator was a bit big and the block was aluminum. The biggest problem was the retension clip. I never used it on anything more powerfull that a Celeron 900. It ran only about 10'C above room temp and that was with the fan on the radiator turn off. The radiator was 20' of 3/8" copper tubing in a double coil (one inside the other). I use a MAG 250GPH pump. I ran it for about a month or so. Maybe someday I will play with it some more. I have a duron 600@900 on a motherboard with the 4 mounting holes that I cold water cool.
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  3. #3
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    Yeah am getting some uv cathodes off AGW_01 on thursday.

    I'm using de-ionised water, made sure of that need to get some uv dye and water wetter/similar substance aswell.
    And thena relay card to make sure i dont fry everything

    The bay res is going where the fan controller usually is on a thermaltake case, so always visible and hopefully with some dye in there and a 4" cathode under it it sould light up pretty damn ncicely.

    And i'm tired now since its about 2am and i've been working all night.

    I'm glad i found the whole lot for sale together aswell or i was intending on buying new and using top of the range parts which would have cost move than double what this cost and it should do nicely to introduce me to water and maybe a stepping stone towards phase change later on
    Last edited by Marvt74; March 16th, 2004 at 09:14 PM.
    A64 3000+ at 3.2ghz
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  4. #4
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    DI water and distilled water are good, but if you really want to go for the best, and you have access to a good university lab, you could use something like high performance liquid chromatography water. Most high quality analytical chemistry labs should have this grade of water or something very close to it; we use it in our labs. Before experimenting we rinse out the galssware 3 times with tap water, 3 times with DI water, and then 3 times with the high performance water. There is a definite change in experimental results if you have small amounts of DI water or distilled water left in the glassware rather than the high performance liquid chromatography water. If you don't have access to the lab, then I wouldn't worry about it though; it runs about 80$ for 4 liters.

  5. #5
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    DI and distilled water are almost a waste of time- they'll pick up ions right from your system and be no better than plain ole tap water in no time flat! (unless your tap water is full of chlorine- for gods sakes, don't put hydrochloric acid in your loop!) Make sure you use some sort of corrosion inhibitor too; I made the mistake of not doing it, and got all sorts of crud built up in my system because of it
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  6. #6
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    Hmm 80$ for 4 litres is tad of a lot since i only paid about 4pounds for 5litres of di water

    What would you say was the best way to clean all the dust off say a video card. I always thought a tshirt or something just to wipe it but always got scared
    Last edited by Marvt74; March 17th, 2004 at 06:01 AM.
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  7. #7
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    Sweet Marv!

    Glad you finally got it all up and running... are you going to get more blocks eventually and cool the northbridge and graphics card? I bet you'll be able to get some awesome overclocks with that.

    What radiator is it again, and is the fan really bigger than the pump? lol!

    I'll see you tomorrow about those cathodes (and fans don't forget, hehe)
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  8. #8
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    Yeah going to get gpu block and relay card/uv paint and dye at the end of the month i think, not going to bother with the NB yet as the pump isnt the most powerful so might struggle wiith 3 blocks.
    When i upgrade the thing again maybe with a white water block i'll get a new pump aswell maybe the hydor L30/eheim 1250.

    Alas this is going to be more to upgrade now instead of the usual
    A64 3000+ at 3.2ghz
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  9. #9
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    If copper is the only metal in the loop that the water comes in contact with, using high quality water is well worth the time. At temperatures less than 150C copper will not corrode while contained in deaerated water free from any oxidizing agents. The key is to make the system free from air. Of course most water cooling setups are closed enviroments, but unless you purge the air from the system, oxidation or dissolvation will occur in the system depending on what the pH is. If you use high quality water, and purge the system of air, you will not experience buildup of any sort in your sytem and should be able to run almost indefinetly without corrosion.

  10. #10
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    AH but being a poor student 80bucks/50pounds is a hellova lot top spend, would imagine that would be better spent on a white water block of better pump,
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  11. #11
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    Well yes, I wouldn't reccomend buying that expensive water, but if you know someone who is a chemistry major...

    DI water would probably be fine for your application, but if you had easy acces to ultra-pure water, it would be worth your effort.

  12. #12
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    Well hopefullt next year my friends are going to uni doing medicine and oither sciency subjects so maybe soon, i could even try selling it to find morfe parts
    A64 3000+ at 3.2ghz
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    Regassed prommie with R507a

    Ah the new updatedness of my sig.

  13. #13
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    Angry

    Well come to the conclusion that water + pc + beer+ being very tired is not a good combination.

    Think i approached it wrong aswell as i set it all up outside the case then tried to put the completed setup into the pc as a whole via the 5.25 bays.

    While doing this the pipe to the pump from the cpu block decided to come off so water lined the floor of my case luckily non seems to have got the motherboard.

    SO since i'm working every night untill suinday that shall be the day i'll go about it all again.
    A64 3000+ at 3.2ghz
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    Galaxy 7800GTX
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    Regassed prommie with R507a

    Ah the new updatedness of my sig.

  14. #14
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    Expensive water is a waste of money especially when you are starting out and have not finalized things. You fill, refill, spill, curse and start all over again.

    Corrosion is the least of your concerns at the moment. I'm not saying there are no merits to various qualities of water (and additives).

    Sooooooo its now time to add a phase-change water chiller into your loop
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  15. #15
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    Damn Marv!!

    So let me get this straight.. you tried to feed the pump and all pipes through the 5 1/4" bays while it was all still connected together? How did you do that!?!?! lol

    I hope you can get it all up and running this weekend! I know how long you've wanted a water cooling setup.. damn I'm so jealous.

    Next time you have a party, invite me... When you go to sleep instead of someone downloading *that stuff*, I'll just nick the WC gear
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