I just have to get a new PSU. My 300W is somehow surviving with 2 cold cathodes, CD/RW, 2 HDDs, 2 sticks of PC133, 2 80mm fans, SB Audigy, NIC, 56k Modem, iPod (powered via firewire), digital camera via USB (power trickle), and my graphics card. According to all the calculators I've seen, I'm pulling just over 315W from my 300W PSU. This isn't good news. Besides, I want to run at least one or two other hard drives, another case fan, and a power-hungry graphics card. The way I see it I need a about 400 watts, but I would prefer around 450W.
I know that the Antec TruePower PSUs get good ratings under stress tests. However, the one I want is over 80 bucks. So, what is the biggest difference between the TruePower 480 and the regular P4 "SL450?" I won't be pulling 450W from the thing so really it doesn't matter if it is a "true" 450W PSU. Any thoughts?
Last edited by SaulTurnedPaul; February 9th, 2004 at 07:24 PM.
Opteron 165 @ 280x9 = 2.52GHz
ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe
BFG 7600GT OC
Corsair 2GB DDR400 Dual Channel
Seagate Barracuda 200GB SATA
NEC 3500A 16X DL DVD±RW
The price differance between the 380, 430, and 480 are not that much. Antec True power are good power supplies and you generally get what you pay for with power supplies. Even their 330w runs over $60. Do not get the 550 True power as few (even the good ones) actually can handle more than the 480w does. I have had the True Blue 480w (the one with the Blue LED fans). It is whisper quite and very powerfull.
AMD Phenom II x4 945 3Ghz | ASUS M4A77TD | 2X WD 1TB SATA 2 hard drive | 2x2GB Corsair XMS3 | nVidia GeForce 8800 GTS | ATI TV Wonder Theater Pro 550 | Antec P-160 case | Antec 650w Earth Watts | LG Blu-ray Super Drive | LG DVD RW | Windows 7 Pro
I would (and did) split the difference and go for the True 430w. You should be able to run it for a few years without a hitch so the extra expense is worth it IMHO. If you are really looking to save, I would pop for the True 380.
Main DVD MM Rig:
CoolerMaster Storm Scout
AM3 Phenom II x4 955BE @ 3.6 ghz
Corsair H50 Watercooling kit
4.0 GB AData DDR3
GIGABYTE GA-MA770T-UD3P Mainboard
Western Digital 750GB 7200rpm w/32mb cache
Samsung 750GB 7200rpm w/32mb cache
Western Digital 1.0TB 7200rpm w/32mb cache
LG 20x DVDRW-DL "SuperDrive"
PNY GeForce 9800gt 1024mb w/Samsung 245BW 24" LCD
Corsair 620w Modular Power Supply
Logitech z-640 5.1's
Logitech Wireless Mouse
Win 7 Ultimate........
My regular Antec 400w is starting to drop on the 5v line. The psu is a little over two years old, but when it was new, it would always maintain at least 4.8v. Now it dips down to almost 4.5v. My TruePower 480w maintains a pretty decent 5v line (never dips below 4.91v) on my current system. I would buy a TruePower over the standard version.
Thanks guys for the responses. Okay, so I'll get the TruePower 430. It should serve me just fine. The only question left is - will this power supply work with a BTX motherboard? I'm thinking not. How long until this new form factor arrives on the market?
Opteron 165 @ 280x9 = 2.52GHz
ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe
BFG 7600GT OC
Corsair 2GB DDR400 Dual Channel
Seagate Barracuda 200GB SATA
NEC 3500A 16X DL DVD±RW
This all depends on weither everybody really listens to Intel. Likely ATX will last for a while. Nobody but Intel really wants all this junk. I'm hoping only some parts of this will be implimented. Likely the specs for motherboards will change as video cards and CPUs will need more power (especially the new Prescott P4 core). If Intel could make a CPU that stays under 100w and did not run 10-15'C hotter than the same clocked Northwood core P4 with Intel's own stock cooler we would need this crap. Thery also want a pass through cooling tunnel and likely much larger heatsinks to keep this monster cool. Also [H]ardOCP says several other capacitors and chips on the motherboard itself ran MUCH hotter. Intel's failure to design a chip that is actually faster instead of just a power hog and a small blast furnace.
I'm hoping this is another failure like RAMBUS!
AMD Phenom II x4 945 3Ghz | ASUS M4A77TD | 2X WD 1TB SATA 2 hard drive | 2x2GB Corsair XMS3 | nVidia GeForce 8800 GTS | ATI TV Wonder Theater Pro 550 | Antec P-160 case | Antec 650w Earth Watts | LG Blu-ray Super Drive | LG DVD RW | Windows 7 Pro
There is a conversion guide floating around for turning an ATX psu connector into a BTX one if you really want to skimp on buying a BTX psu for that new case.
I know many people around here don't reccomend getting generic power supplies, but I still do. I might be cheap, but I have a hard time spending $60-$80 on one. This is the one I'm currently using; although I got it from a different seller for $20. All the voltage lines stay pretty clean, but then again my system really isn't that power hungry.
I think spending $60-80 on a good power supply is a worthy expense. I have seen people loose motherboards and CPUs when their power supplies died. I also recommend UPS (those battery back up surge protectors) as I have lost some parts to power surges (lost my motherboard last year to a lightening storm). It doesn't take much to fry half you system. The cool thing is most of these surge protectors have a several year warrenty covering your entire computer/monitor/printer. I think I paid $50 for mine, but I got the Antec 480 True Blue back when they were about $100 shipped from NewEgg. I am quite happy with the purchases.
AMD Phenom II x4 945 3Ghz | ASUS M4A77TD | 2X WD 1TB SATA 2 hard drive | 2x2GB Corsair XMS3 | nVidia GeForce 8800 GTS | ATI TV Wonder Theater Pro 550 | Antec P-160 case | Antec 650w Earth Watts | LG Blu-ray Super Drive | LG DVD RW | Windows 7 Pro
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