Old HSF suited for Duron 1300?
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Thread: Old HSF suited for Duron 1300?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
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    Old HSF suited for Duron 1300?

    Hi!

    I've got a Duron 1300 (not built in yet) and was wonderig if I could still use my old HSF. My old CPU was a Duron 750, and the HSF was rated 1GHz (I believe there weren't any ultra fsat CPUs back when I bought it). What do you experts think, can I use the old HSF even if the CPU is 1.3GHz? Can I try it and watch the temp, or will I risk instant death? Or better buy a new one?

    Any suggestions welcome! Thanks!
    There is an art, or rather, a knack to flying.
    The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss.

    - The Hitchhiker's Guide To The Galaxy -

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    "DON'T PANIC"

    If you mount the old HSF and boot into the BIOS you should be able to check IDLE temperatures to see if they are in a reasonable range (< 50C). If they are higher than this then you will probably not be able to use that heatsink as UNDER LOAD the temperatures will be too high. It should be safe to try the old HSF this way. What model of HSF is it that you have?
    CPU: Intel i7 2600K @ 4.6Ghz
    Mobo: Asus P8P67 Pro B3 Revision
    Mem: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1866MHz
    Video: 2 x MSI HD5850 Twin Frozr II (CrossfireX)
    HDD: Crucial C300 128GB SSD, Seagate Momentus XT 500GB
    Sound: RealtekŪ ALC892 8-Channel High Definition Audio
    OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    IF unsure, replace.
    Costs should be very minor for an acceptable HSF.
    "I know nothing."
    Cheers.

  4. #4
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    hmmm I've accepted the risk and installed the Duron 1300 with my old HSF... right now the CPU is at 100% CPU usage (I've got the game Unreal running while I type this), the temp is at 56-57°C after Windows (98 SE) is up for fifteen minutes running at 100%. How's this temperature to be rated? Too high? High, but safe? OK?

    (Yes, I know, eventually I need a better HSF.... but I'm completely broke right now, so using the old one would help me for a while )

    Thanks!
    Last edited by Ford Prefect; May 14th, 2003 at 12:50 PM.
    There is an art, or rather, a knack to flying.
    The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss.

    - The Hitchhiker's Guide To The Galaxy -

  5. #5
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    if it tops off at 57c under full load, you are fine, thats a little hot... but its fine , if you dont have a exhaust/intake fans, i would add them, this will take your temps down much farther

  6. #6
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    Well recently when overclocking my CPU was bordering on 60C!!!! This is with the on die temp measurement so I knew I was still along way from the 90C that would kill the chip, but graphics started screwing up a little, so either that heat was raising the system temp and the video card temp or the CPU was causing the graphical errors. So I'm more conservative with what I consider "safe" temps. I wouldn't like to go over 55/56C. You should be ok with that heatsink short term..
    CPU: Intel i7 2600K @ 4.6Ghz
    Mobo: Asus P8P67 Pro B3 Revision
    Mem: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1866MHz
    Video: 2 x MSI HD5850 Twin Frozr II (CrossfireX)
    HDD: Crucial C300 128GB SSD, Seagate Momentus XT 500GB
    Sound: RealtekŪ ALC892 8-Channel High Definition Audio
    OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit

  7. #7
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    did some mre testing last night, CPU was reaching the 61°C when I did some video encoding; I added an old PSU fan as exhaust fan below the PSU, now it stays defenitly below 55°C. Any suggestions where the fan would be placed best or how I could improve the air flow? It isn't perfect anyeay, because I had to remove my floppy drive, so there's a big hole in the front of my midi sized case....
    There is an art, or rather, a knack to flying.
    The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss.

    - The Hitchhiker's Guide To The Galaxy -

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
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    3,265
    fan blowing IN in front of the case, with as little in its way as possible and fan at the back of the case,bellow psu blowing OUT,will give you pretty good airflow (80mm will be OK, as most case come with mounting holes for that size)

    BTW changing your HSF fan for something bigger always helps

    for example when going from 70mm on my Volcano7+ to 92mm fan, I could drop rpm from 4000 to 2000 and still have better cooling capacity (used duct-tape to get all the air on the heat sink in a tunnel fashion)

    OH and if its a mid size case you should have fan mounting place in the front at the bottom of the case. Problem is that its usually almost entirely blocked by plastic. To get better airflow you can cut out plastic/metal in front of the fan and get metal grill, picture bellow:

    Last edited by F_A_L_C_O_N; May 15th, 2003 at 07:36 AM.

  9. #9
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    Grand Haven, Michigan, USA
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    For a cheap cooler I got an Igloo 2500 from NewEgg. The SK-7 and SLK-800 were out of stock. It only cost $16. It has a this copper base, but I thought it was solid copper, because the rest was panted or coated with copper:





    It uses a 70mm fan and the heatsink is 70mmx64mmx54mm. Well I bent the fins from 64mm to 80mm and added an Antec 80mm fan Tri light LED case fan (with a seperate RPM sensor wire). I thought the temps were a bit high, but it turns out the internal diode reads a bit higher than the socket one does (almost 15'C at idle). I replaced it with an SK-7 a few weeks ago and my temps only dropped about 1'C (both using the same fan and Arctic Silver 2).

    This is a picture of the Mod'd Igloo heatsink installed:
    AMD Phenom II x4 945 3Ghz | ASUS M4A77TD | 2X WD 1TB SATA 2 hard drive | 2x2GB Corsair XMS3 | nVidia GeForce 8800 GTS | ATI TV Wonder Theater Pro 550 | Antec P-160 case | Antec 650w Earth Watts | LG Blu-ray Super Drive | LG DVD RW | Windows 7 Pro

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