How can i start my first water cooling for cpu?
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    UK/HK
    Posts
    524

    How can i start my first water cooling for cpu?

    I only know how to o/c with changing FSB, multipliers and upping voltage in the bios/on the mobo.(with no modding.)
    i'm amazed by all the speed u guys reaching, and i would like to start having a water cooling method for my cpu, and possibly a water cooler that can cool my cpu plus other components.
    now where do i start?
    and any instructions?

    Antec TruePower 330W
    Asus A8N-E Bios 1008
    AMD 64 3000+ E3 Venice 1.8GHz @ 2.7GHz/auto vcore(1.55v~)
    (9x300/HTT 3x/RAM 266)
    Arctic Freezer 64 HSF
    Kingston 2x512MB CL2.5 DDR400
    ATI X800XT 256MB PCI-E, CAT 6.13 500/500 @ 520/510
    21" Eizo CRT 1280x1024@85Hz
    Maxtor DiamondMax 10 250GB 16MB cache
    Maxtor DiamondMax 10 200GB 8MB cache
    Samsung 16x DVDRW
    Logitech X-620 6.1 Speakers
    Canon Pixma IP3000 Printer

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Location
    Grand Haven, Michigan, USA
    Posts
    11,332
    Go here. They have a Koolance case with a water cooler in it or you can build one yourself. They have a really good kit with everything you need and you can upgrade componants as you see fit. I'd get the larger pump if you are using a peltier (which the kit includes, but I would not recommend peltier cooling on your first water cooling attempt) or if you are going to cool the graphics card and north bridge. If you look around you can even find coolers for hard drives.

    The other thing you need for the really high overclocks is high voltages. Most of the time you will need to sodder on a resistor onto the motherboard, but some of the new KT333 boards are including an "over voltage" feature that will let you goto about 2.2v. Combine this with water cooling and some good memory and you should be able to get to 1.8Ghz to 2.0Ghz. With "Super Cooling" (refrigerant, peltiers, Liquide Nitrous Oxide...) you might be able to hit as high as 2.2Ghz, not likely not for very long.
    http://www.directron.com/watercooling.html

    This is not the cheapest place, but I know the parts they have are good (Eheim pumps and Maze water blocks). Water cooling is not mantenance free though and will not fit in all cases. Most use full tower cases when water cooling.

    When you start using peltiers though you need to really make sure everything is perfect. You can fry your CPU and even your motherboard if it fails. You also need to insolate everything from condensation and frost if you cool it too much. If you can keep it close to room temp then this is not a problem, but then you need to turn off cooling software or the temps might get to low at idle and frost might occure.

    Hey!!! I wonder if you could rig a thermistor to a peltier to increase the wattage as the temp goes up to get it to maintain a stable temp. This would also take the load of your power supply and cooling system at idle or when surfing. Hook the fans up to the thermistor too. That would rock.

    ------------------
    AthlonXP 1600+ 1.65v 42'C
    FOP32-1 Mod w/80mm 30db
    Epox 8KHA+ KT266A
    256MB Crucial DDR266 cas2
    GeForce2 GTS (210/410)
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    TTGI TT-350-SS 370w PS
    AMD Phenom II x4 945 3Ghz | ASUS M4A77TD | 2X WD 1TB SATA 2 hard drive | 2x2GB Corsair XMS3 | nVidia GeForce 8800 GTS | ATI TV Wonder Theater Pro 550 | Antec P-160 case | Antec 650w Earth Watts | LG Blu-ray Super Drive | LG DVD RW | Windows 7 Pro

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    UK/HK
    Posts
    524
    i'll do a bit more research and find a less expensive water cooler.

    also i would like to ask, is that my other computer, when switched on, after it had been off for a while, it makes a very noisy sound, like plane taking off, but then its fine after loaded into windows for about 2mins.
    quick restarts doesn't do that.

    Antec TruePower 330W
    Asus A8N-E Bios 1008
    AMD 64 3000+ E3 Venice 1.8GHz @ 2.7GHz/auto vcore(1.55v~)
    (9x300/HTT 3x/RAM 266)
    Arctic Freezer 64 HSF
    Kingston 2x512MB CL2.5 DDR400
    ATI X800XT 256MB PCI-E, CAT 6.13 500/500 @ 520/510
    21" Eizo CRT 1280x1024@85Hz
    Maxtor DiamondMax 10 250GB 16MB cache
    Maxtor DiamondMax 10 200GB 8MB cache
    Samsung 16x DVDRW
    Logitech X-620 6.1 Speakers
    Canon Pixma IP3000 Printer

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Location
    Grand Haven, Michigan, USA
    Posts
    11,332
    It is likely one of your fans quitting on you. Likely it is the one inside the power supply, but it could be the fan on the heatsink, northbridge (if you have one) or a case fan. Just open you computer and see where the noise is coming from. Likely it is the power supply. You will need to remove about 4 screws from the back of the case to take out the power supply, 4 screws to remove the cover (make sure it is unplugged), and 4 screws on the fan. You can either get a new fan and wire it in where the old one is or you can clean out and oil the fan (peal off the sticker on the back and add some light oil like 3 in 1 household oil). Works wonders.

    About the water cooling, you will likely not get much cheaper than about $150 unless you build it yourself. A good water pump will set you back at least $50. A good radiator will set you back about the same. Then you need a water block for about $30-50. Throw in the clamps, hoses and fans and you are talking a bit of money.

    Now if you want you might be able to get a assemble the parts for a bit cheaper. You can get a Supreme Mag Drive 250GPH pump for about $35 +S&H here:
    http://www.petsmart.com/products/product_770.shtml

    You can look for a for a used transmision cooler in a junk yard (or possibly a radiator from a water cooled motor cycle or garder tractor). You can also make one yourself. I got a couple of boxes of 1/2" copper tubing (20' each) for $7 from a local Menards. I used about 15' to make 8 coils about 4"x6". I then cut the rest unto 4" pieces and soddered them inside the coils as fins. I then mounted a 120mm fan on top. Works pretty good. I also made a water block block myself with a few blocks of aluminum (copper would be better, but aluminum is what I had handy). Use about a 2"x2"x3/4" block and a top piece about 2"x2"x1/4". I cut a channel using a drill, drilling about a hundred holes in the block next to each other in an "M" shape and connecting them together with the drill. I drilled and tapped for the fittings and drilled and tapped for the 4 screw securing the top on. I added some sealant used for radiator gaskets (blue silicon stuff). I got some tubing for $4 and hose clamps for $2. You can check out some pictures I took when testing it. I got a cheaper pump and was pretty happy with the tests I ran, but the pump was too noisy. Eventually I will get a pump and through this into one of my 4 computers to test it. This was pretty much a learning experiance:
    http://www.geocities.com/todd_e_abbott/computer1.html

    ------------------
    AthlonXP 1600+ 1.65v 42'C
    FOP32-1 Mod w/80mm 30db
    Epox 8KHA+ KT266A
    256MB Crucial DDR266 cas2
    GeForce2 GTS (210/410)
    Sound Blaster Audigy
    Antec SX-630 Case (mod'd)
    TTGI TT-350-SS 370w PS
    AMD Phenom II x4 945 3Ghz | ASUS M4A77TD | 2X WD 1TB SATA 2 hard drive | 2x2GB Corsair XMS3 | nVidia GeForce 8800 GTS | ATI TV Wonder Theater Pro 550 | Antec P-160 case | Antec 650w Earth Watts | LG Blu-ray Super Drive | LG DVD RW | Windows 7 Pro

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Eastern USA
    Posts
    385
    Todd, there is only one problem with that MAG pump. IT is not "self-priming" and can't draw water from a lower lever to prime itself. If the water is higher than the pump, then gravity will prime it, or if you can devise a way for the pump to keep its prime it will work good. That's what I did. I use that pump in my system. Very quiet.

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    Doo wa diddy, diddy dum diddy doo.....
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