A few quick ones for you watercooling guy's
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Thread: A few quick ones for you watercooling guy's

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    A few quick ones for you watercooling guy's

    Since my 1.4ghz T/B is running hot(71'c under load and because I've been wanting to do it for a while anyway)I have decided to build a watercooling setup,but need a few questions answered please.
    1-I have a full tower case and want to build the whole setup inside,I have seen it done but will this cause a restriction in performance?

    2-What is a good LPH to look for on a pump and does it matter if it is indide the resivoir(I know this may up the temp a little)

    3-I live in the UK and need to get a good waterblock what one should I look for and where to buy?

    4-Should the radiator be before or after the resivoir?

    5- Any recomendations or tips will be well recived,and are there any good sites on watercooling setups ect.

    Thanx for any help

    ------------------
    ATHLON 1.4ghz @ 1.4ghz
    FOP38
    Abit KT7A
    256 HYUNDAI PC133
    GEFORCE 256 PRO
    S.B LIVE PLATINUM
    PC-DVD
    SCSI 4X CDR
    SEAGATE 7200 28GIG
    SEAGATE "ERRICSON" 40.1GIG
    HITACHI CM761ET 19"
    ATHLON XP@1.6
    ALPHA+120mm fan
    ABIT KR7A
    256 DDR cas2
    MATROX G550
    S.B LIVE PLATINUM
    PC-DVD
    20x10x40 CDRw
    SEAGATE 7200 28GIG
    SEAGATE "ERRICSON" 40.1GIG
    HITACHI CM761ET 19"

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    1-I have a full tower case and want to build the whole setup inside,I have seen it done but will this cause a restriction in performance?

    it will be hard to make it as efficient as a rad based system mounted outside the PC. It will also not reduce the noise levels as you'll need a few big fans to blow across the rad. It also may prove a nightmare fitting it in and then being able to get to the componments in the PC. Unless you really need mobility it's better to build it outside, efficiency ease of build wise.

    2-What is a good LPH to look for on a pump and does it matter if it is indide the resivoir(I know this may up the temp a little)

    A 600 to 800 litres per hour should be sufficient. Flow rate depends on how well you can cool the water in the rad if it flows to fast then it will pass through the rad before being cooled enough which is just as bad as to little flow. better to go on the higher side as you can always restrict the flow a bit.

    3-I live in the UK and need to get a good waterblock what one should I look for and where to buy?

    So do I, and I got mine from the USA (as there wasn't anywhere in the UK back then) www.dangerden.com in the US do some nice blocks. In the UK you can get the swiftech from www.techheads.co.uk or the type I'm using which does require a separate hold down from www.overclockingstore.co.uk (mine came from www.overclockershideout.com which supply the overclockingstore)

    4-Should the radiator be before or after the reservoir?

    reservoir-pump-rad-block IMO

    5- Any recomendations or tips will be well recived,and are there any good sites on watercooling setups ect.

    If the water is only being cooled to room temp or inside case temp, (if that is higher), you may not be overjoyed with the temps. They should be better than air but not significantly.

    I'm running overclocked of course (1gig Axia @ 1596), but I get around 20C CPU max load above my water temp. I'm using ground cooling and my water input temp is consistently around 14 to 16 atm.





    [This message has been edited by BladeRunner (edited 07-19-2001).]

  3. #3
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    Forgot.. you mentioned a preference for an all in one system in another thread. Try here but they aren't cheap.

    http://www.watercooling.co.uk

    *EDIT*

    Damn I keep thinking of more stuff

    got my pump from here, (I went to the shop as it is only 7 miles from me), but postage is reasonable.

    www.angliaaquatics.co.uk



    [This message has been edited by BladeRunner (edited 07-19-2001).]

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the very detailed and informative reply I'll keep you posted,Im sure i'll have more questions as I go along

    ------------------
    ATHLON 1.4ghz @ 1.4ghz
    FOP38
    Abit KT7A
    256 HYUNDAI PC133
    GEFORCE 256 PRO
    S.B LIVE PLATINUM
    PC-DVD
    SCSI 4X CDR
    SEAGATE 7200 28GIG
    SEAGATE "ERRICSON" 40.1GIG
    HITACHI CM761ET 19"
    ATHLON XP@1.6
    ALPHA+120mm fan
    ABIT KR7A
    256 DDR cas2
    MATROX G550
    S.B LIVE PLATINUM
    PC-DVD
    20x10x40 CDRw
    SEAGATE 7200 28GIG
    SEAGATE "ERRICSON" 40.1GIG
    HITACHI CM761ET 19"

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    I recently built a watercooled system similar to what you want to do- It's all contained within my full-tower case. I don't know if I'd recommend it, but it's tidy and works well enough, keeps my temps to 48-52C which isn't great but a hellofalot better than 70!

    The setup is straight forward- radiator core, resevoir w/pump, and water block.

    I scrounged a car heater core to use as a radiator- I had to dismantle my case to get it in, but I have it wedged at a 45 angle in the top half of my case, above the PSU. You'll need to increase airflow through there- I punched holes in the side of my case, and put 2 fans pushing in, 2 fans pulling out the back, but you could probably mount a fan in the drive bay slots instead. I made a cardboard tray and lined it with plastic to set everything in- it's large enough it can hold all the water in the system if something leaks. I sealed the air gaps with foam rubber weather stripping.

    My original radio shak project box didn't work as a resevoir (too shallow- got sucked dry once it was turned on, and overflowed once turned off if I it topped off), and the 1-qt container I ended up using is too big and is uncomfortably wedged in there between my hard drives and vid card; I'd recommend some more forethought that I put into it, lol... A resevoirless pump would work well in this situation, I think.

    Umm... I used 1/2" tubing, a 176gph submersible pump, and a Danger Den Amaze2 block. One thing I did that I definately recommend is to rig up a relay so that your pump is always on when your computer is! I bought a cheap relay from radio shak & a Y power conenctor and hooked the coil up to the 12v ATX bus to switch a 120v outlet on and off. The outlet fits in the only open space in my case- the top three 5 1/2" bays. If you're on a UPS, make sure you have the water pump on it too!! you don't want your PC to run for 20 minutes during a power outage without cooling, heh...


    I'd recommend RESEVOIR/PUMP - BLOCK - RADIATOR. Remember that most fishtank pumps are designed for your average fishtank, and don't like a lot of heat... mine is only rated for 35C. The pump won't put out much heat anyhow, so you won't gain much going the other way around.

    ------------------
    Asus A7V
    AXIA T-Bird 1GHz @ 1.266GHz

    [This message has been edited by grover (edited 07-19-2001).]
    Pentium IV 2.4C Northwood- M0 stepping @ 3.2GHz HT
    Air Cooled w/ SP-94 heatpipe & 92mm Vantex Tornado at 45C
    4x256=1gb dual-channel 2-3-3-6 OCZ PC800DRAM @ 890MHz 3-4-4-8
    MSI Neo2-PLS w/I865PE & SATA @ 4x267=1068MHz
    BFG GeForceFX 5900@485/967MHz = 6284 3DMark2003s; dual-head 21" CRT & 19" LCD

  6. #6
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    Grover I think it may have been your setup that I saw that gave me my plan for an internal setup,any chance of posting some pic's?
    thanks for the info

    ------------------
    ATHLON 1.4ghz @ 1.4ghz
    FOP38
    Abit KT7A
    256 HYUNDAI PC133
    GEFORCE 256 PRO
    S.B LIVE PLATINUM
    PC-DVD
    SCSI 4X CDR
    SEAGATE 7200 28GIG
    SEAGATE "ERRICSON" 40.1GIG
    HITACHI CM761ET 19"

    [This message has been edited by Markie (edited 07-19-2001).]
    ATHLON XP@1.6
    ALPHA+120mm fan
    ABIT KR7A
    256 DDR cas2
    MATROX G550
    S.B LIVE PLATINUM
    PC-DVD
    20x10x40 CDRw
    SEAGATE 7200 28GIG
    SEAGATE "ERRICSON" 40.1GIG
    HITACHI CM761ET 19"

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Location
    UK
    Posts
    212
    The setup's at www.watercooling.co.uk look reasonable to me for the money,anyone tried or ordered from them?

    ------------------
    ATHLON 1.4ghz @ 1.4ghz
    FOP38
    Abit KT7A
    256 HYUNDAI PC133
    GEFORCE 256 PRO
    S.B LIVE PLATINUM
    PC-DVD
    SCSI 4X CDR
    SEAGATE 7200 28GIG
    SEAGATE "ERRICSON" 40.1GIG
    HITACHI CM761ET 19"
    ATHLON XP@1.6
    ALPHA+120mm fan
    ABIT KR7A
    256 DDR cas2
    MATROX G550
    S.B LIVE PLATINUM
    PC-DVD
    20x10x40 CDRw
    SEAGATE 7200 28GIG
    SEAGATE "ERRICSON" 40.1GIG
    HITACHI CM761ET 19"

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 1999
    Location
    Norwich, UK
    Posts
    3,790
    grover's probably right as I couldn't imagine my water temp above 20C let alone 35C I've also got around 120 litres in my sys and no rad.

    It's also a good point about the pump switch on. I'm using an old 12v relay from a car which is mounted in the PC and switched by the 12v from a 4 pin PSU plug. This switches a 12v coil 240v contact relay outside the PC (using it's own 12v supply), that runs the pump. the 240v for the PC and the pump come from the same protected outlet. The only real difference in mine is I have a run on circuit so when the PC is powered down in the normal, this circuit supplies the pump with power for another min. Not really required for straight water cooling but I made it for using peltiers later. Setting a relay to do it just means you wont have to remember to turn on the pump separately all the time.

    The other thing to have is MBM5 and SHDN working together you can set a max CPU temp in MBM, (40C for my sys). and if the CPU goes over this the PC will auto shut down in the normal way by SHDN.

    The only thing about the kits from www.watercooling.co.uk is the parts you get. only kit five has the Ehiem pump and the water block looks very "Heath Robinson" and is not copper. I just think you could put together better parts for similar money, but of course it will be more of a headache. Probably good to get if you still want it in the PC case. Kit 5 is the best but it would be nice if the peltier was optional.


    [This message has been edited by BladeRunner (edited 07-20-2001).]

  9. #9
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    Chesapeake, VA, USA
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    As a matter of fact... http://www.grovers.com/bin/ is my net directory- all the "casewrad.jpg" pics are shots I took with my webcam before I closed up the case. I'm afraid my real digital cam is busted and they're not very high quality, but it should give you an idea This was before I hooked it up (still running an air-cooled Duron at the time) so the weather stripping isn't up and I haven't installed the water block yet or hooked up the pump, but it shouldn't be too hard to imagine what it looks like. (I routed the power cable for the pump inside the case too, btw.)



    I also did an AutoCAD Sketch of my radiator design. You can get a free AutoCAD viewer here if you need. The green is the cardboard/plasitc-lined tray, and the orange octogons to the side are templates I made for cutting fan holes. If you print to scale, cut the inner ring completely out with a dremel, as well as the radial lines. Score along the outer ring, and bend them all back with a hammer & wrench and you'll have near perfect holes every time Little squares are for the 115v power cable for the receptical.

    ------------------
    Asus A7V
    AXIA T-Bird 1GHz @ 1.266GHz


    [This message has been edited by grover (edited 07-20-2001).]
    Pentium IV 2.4C Northwood- M0 stepping @ 3.2GHz HT
    Air Cooled w/ SP-94 heatpipe & 92mm Vantex Tornado at 45C
    4x256=1gb dual-channel 2-3-3-6 OCZ PC800DRAM @ 890MHz 3-4-4-8
    MSI Neo2-PLS w/I865PE & SATA @ 4x267=1068MHz
    BFG GeForceFX 5900@485/967MHz = 6284 3DMark2003s; dual-head 21" CRT & 19" LCD

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