drilling holes...
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
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    UK
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    drilling holes...

    Hello everyone

    I want to drill a couple of holes behind my case to mount a fan to cool the CPU. Any good advise before i make a mess out of it?

    Also, my setup is:
    mercury mid-tower case
    sparkle 250W PSU, 0.25mu Athlon 650Mhz
    1 HD, 2 CDROM drives
    1 PCI blower, 1 case fan, single CPU fan

    do you think by adding an extra fan will put too much streess on my PSU? Whats the maximum you think a 250W PSU can stand? Would it blow up if overloaded?

    Thanks in advance for any advise !!!


  2. #2
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    Dont think you'll have any problems adding 1 more fan. Then again I havent play with Athlons much, maybe someone else knows more.
    Long Live The BP6!

  3. #3
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    Dallas, TX USA
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    Before I put my Athlon system together, everybody told me to get a 300W psu for it anyway since Athlons were power hogs. I would think it was a definite possibility that you might start having stability problems if you add more fans to a 250W psu. Might be ok and might not. Guess the only way to find out is add one on and see.
    No matter how good she looks, some guy, somewhere, is already tired of her chit.

  4. #4
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    Since that Sparkle supply is on the AMD approved list, I suspect you'll be fine. The draw from the fan itself, is relatively low, and steady. Unless you are running lots of drives etc., and a high current video card, you should be fine.
    Free advice, and worth every penny.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Wales,Uk
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    I've Got An Enlight Athlon Approved 250w power Supply On My Athlon 700@800, And It's Fine Here's What Else Is in There:

    Abit Ka7
    1xCDROM Drive
    1xHdd
    1xFloppy
    1xGlobalwin VEK32 Cooler With 2 Y.S Tech Fans
    2xSunon 80mm Case Fans
    1x8mb ATI Expert@Play98
    1xVoodoo2 12mb
    1xSbLive
    1x56k Modem

    U Shouldn't Get Ant Problems

    ------------------
    Athlon 700@800, 128mb, Voodoo 2, 17' Sony 210ES, SB Live.
    XP @ 2.3Ghz (210xx11)
    NF7-S v2
    1GB PC3500
    Rad 9800pro @ XT
    CM101B
    Hitachi 17" 16ms TFT

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Location
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    Posts
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    Oh Yeah It's A 0.18um Athlon With The Voltage @ 1.65


    ------------------
    Athlon 700@800, 128mb, Voodoo 2, 17' Sony 210ES, SB Live.
    XP @ 2.3Ghz (210xx11)
    NF7-S v2
    1GB PC3500
    Rad 9800pro @ XT
    CM101B
    Hitachi 17" 16ms TFT

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    USA
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    I've done a lot of drilling lately and I've learnt one lesson, you can't expect to hurry and get nice results. Start by drilling pilot holes with small 1/16" bore self-tapping/starting drill bits and then gradually move to a larger bore and then you'll have nicely centered holes that match up.

    ------------------
    -=S_Klass=- I tweak... therefore I am.
    -=S_Klass=- I tweak... therefore I am.

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  8. #8
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    Very true S_Klass!

    I find that using the biggest bit possible and revving up the drill all the way and jamming it through tends to cause problems!
    Long Live The BP6!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1999
    Posts
    1,424
    Of course, the easiest and fastest way to cut a circular hole in your case requires three things:

    1. a compass
    2. tinsnips
    3. strength

    I added a couple of fan hole to my Enlight 7237 Midtower, and let me tell you adding the blowhole on top was a ***** (had to cut through the one-piece body and the top case skeleton). But it looks good.

    Its always a good idea to have a rotary tool or dremel to finish these guys.

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  10. #10
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    Buy Rotozip =)
    Actually get the circle cutter add on for you drill. It does a very good job expecially metal.

    Rye

  11. #11
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    Does the Rotozip work on the 1 - 1.5 mm sheet metal? Is it able to punch a pilot hole first? I've seen it and I WANT IT!

    ------------------
    -=S_Klass=- I tweak... therefore I am.
    -=S_Klass=- I tweak... therefore I am.

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  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1999
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    Bi-metal hole saws are

    1. expensive
    2. they dont work
    3. THEY DONT WORK

    I tried a hole saw before I turned to the tinsnips. These things were "supposed" to cut through steel doors for doorknobs, but it wouldnt even cut through the flimsy-gauge steel lining the back of my case. I mean it, this metal is the thinnest in my case, and it failed to more then cut a shallow ditch.

    Maybe youll have more luck with carbide-tipped, but now were talking big bucks!

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  13. #13
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    I saw a guy use Bosch (white with red Bosch logo) hole saws mated with a hi-power drill to cut holes on the side and top of his case and they turned out really nicely.

    ------------------
    -=S_Klass=- I tweak... therefore I am.
    -=S_Klass=- I tweak... therefore I am.

    Proud Member of the OCN Hellspawns Genome Fleet
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  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
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    554
    As a commercial carpenter who has installed many hundreds of locksets,panic bars,pull bars,any hardware combo you prob.have seen on industrial steel doors,interior and exterior,hole saws work.You cannot overheat the holesaw useing excessive rpms and expect them to function properly.Excessive heat will round the teeth right over. Keep the rpms down, be patient, no probs.

    [This message has been edited by spark25 (edited 06-05-2000).]

    [This message has been edited by spark25 (edited 06-05-2000).]

    [This message has been edited by spark25 (edited 06-05-2000).]

  15. #15
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    May 2000
    Location
    Netherlands
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    Calling all drillers!
    Calling all drillers!

    Place a little piece of rubber (rubber washers - even better) in between the fan and the case.

    I put an extra fan in a few months ago.
    I couldn't hear much difference. But my neighbors were going crazy from the vibrating "drone" noise.

    Be nice to mice.



    ------------------
    Peace & Love,

    Jas - The Dog- El_Jaso
    Peace & Love,

    Jas - The Dog- El_Jaso

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